Not so Crazy Daisy "quilt"

So here's a super simple, yet impressive, blanket that can become any size you like.  This one was made using Caron simply soft, and one of the things I love is that it's missing the holes that my little toes often poke through with more traditional crochet blankets.  This one is just the right size for a new arrival to lay on!

There's not really a pattern here, all of the interior squares were made using single crochet and if here's a good granny flower pattern; but you can really use any granny you like!

Mermaid tail

I love productive weekends! And by productive, I mean the kind that even though I lose most of the functionality in my hands, I have something AWESOME to show for it.  I don't have a pattern to share with this one as though I was following a picture, but I did use my go-to sizing chart.  I also must add that the white sparkles; the picture doesn't really show it, but I tried to capture it.  I am excitingly starting my next project (even with the limited use of my hands that are still stiff from using a gigantic hook) and I am following a pattern...so far.... I look forward to sharing it with you!

The pic below is the test tail I made using this free pattern. 

Yoda

It's been a little bit since the newest STAR WARS movie came out  - Can I just say how awesome it was??? I LOVED IT!! So much better than the crap they came out with (Episodes I, II, & III)
In honor of one of my favorite charachters, may I present *YODA*   Easy peasy pattern.  I think it turned out great!!

Whooooo?

So a friend of mine sent me a pic and asked me if I could make this owl cocoon. I found this really cute owl pattern and paid for it (reluctantly)... Not to brag or anything, but I'm pretty crochet-savvy... and let's just say I didn't get passed the first two rows. Maybe you will have better luck??? Anywho, so I eyeballed it, and here's my end result:

My friend loved it! I must say, it's one of my favorites!

Snowman Hat

Materials  used 

 Red Heart Super Saver  yarn in WHITE and CARROT

Size  I/9 or 5.50mm hook  (10dc=4inches)

Caron Simply Soft yarn in BLACK

You will need a total of three stitch markers  since  rounds are worked continuously

two 1 inch black buttons

these instructions are for a child sized hat approx. ages 4-10 years with a circumference of about 19"

chain 5

R1 3sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1sc in next 2st, 3sc in last st, continuing around and not turning work, 1sc in each of the next 2st

R2 2sc in each st (20)

R3 [1dc in next st, 2dc in next st]  around (30)

R4 1dc in each st (30)

R5 [1dc in next 2st, 2dc in next st] (40)

R6 dc in each  st (40)

R7 1dc in each  st (40)

R8 1dc in  next 5 st, (2dc in each dc) x20,1dc in next 15st (60)

R9 1dc in next 5 st, 2dc in next 5, 1dc in next 30st (mark first and last stitch), 2dc in next 5, 1dc in next 15st (70)

R10 1 dc n each st  around (70)

R11 2dctog in each st arund aroung (36)

R12-R16 1dc in each st around (36)

R17 1dc in each of the next 36 st, join with slip st

ok, now turn your hat inside out and it's time to grab your yarn needle and at least 2 yards of white yarn. Don't get overwhelmed,  but this might get a little tricky...

We're going to start where we marked our stitches in row 9

Insert your needle in the top (crown)  of the first marked stitch and the bottom of the corresponding stitch in row 10

Using the same principle as a corset, you're going to continue to lace  up the two rows  until you reach your other marker *do not pull tight until you have it all laced up*

cut string and fasten off –

Once you turn the hat right side out, you should have a mini-brim or duck bill type thing going on

EYES (make 2) with white

R1 ch 3

R2 6sc in first ch

R3 2sc in each st (12)

R4 2sc in each st (24)

sl st to join

with black slip stitch around each stitch around the edge

attach black button in the center with black yarn

Mouth - black

R1 ch 22, sc in 2nd from hook and across, ch1 and turn

Each following row: 2sctog in first st, sc across, 2sctog in second to last and last st

sc around mouth creating border

TEETH - with white

R1 ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 3 ch (4)

R2-4 ch 1 turn, sc in each st (4)

cut and leave a long tail then sew onto the mouth

Nose - carrot

R1 ch 4

R2 8dc in first ch

R3 1dc in each st (8)

R4 2dc in each st (16)

R5 1dc in each st (16)

R6 [2sctog in next st, 1 sc in next 2st] around (12)

stuff with filling

R7 2sctog around (6)

cut string and sew hole closed

Eyebrows - black make 2

you can double the yarn if you want thicker eyebrows, but I didn't

ch 7 and cut yarn

Hair (optinal)

Chain minimum of 7  and attach to the top of the hat, make as many or as few as you like

Sew all your face pieces on and ta-da!  You've just made some  child very happy!

 

Eye position is VERY important, they must be above the nose and close together. Otherwise he’ll look scary

You can adjust for sizes by adding or subtracting stitches or changing hook sizes

Also, if you choose to tack the upper lip down, make sure you do that with white yarn AFTER you sew on the mouth

This pattern was made entirely by me, please don't take the credit for yourself

.   Please make and share your creations because there’s not enough love in this world.  Feel free to sell your finished products.

Fire Fighter Baby Set

Fire Fighter Baby Set

Some people say a picture is worth a thousand words; I like to disagree.  You see, I had the privilege of making this outfit for Asher. A picture of a miracle baby whose short life is still impacting many people around the globe.  His amazing parents have this pic of their little hero and that, I believe,  is worth more than words. You can learn more of their story Here.

Materials: Red, Yellow, black for embellishments, and two black buttons approx 1", yarn needle

I used I Love This Yarn from Hobby Lobby because it’s super soft and relatively inexpensive; but you can use whatever you like. Gauge isn’t important since most of your stitch count will be based on actual measurements. if you don’t have an actual infant to measure, google baby clothing sizes. FYI the "rise" is the measurement from the belly button down and around to the small of the back where the pants/diaper sits

Each row will end with a slip stitch in the last chain or "top" chain of the beginning stitch for that row
Hat
R1: chain 2, 8dc in first ch, join with slip stitch to first dc (8)

R2: chain 2, dc in same st, [dc in next st, fpdc in same stitch as dc] around (8dc, 8 fpdc, 1 chain2)

R3and R4: chain 2, 2dc in each st until first fpdc is reached, dc in first fpdc and fpdc around same fpdc

[1dc in each of the next dc, dc in fpdc and fpdc in same st] 7 times.

*If you don’t see a signifigant gap for the front of the hat, go back and make sure you put 2dc in the dc below it and only in the beginning section. This creates the gap in the hat where the badge will go.

Increase: ch 2, dc in same st as ch, 1dc in each st, dc in fpdc, fpdc in same fpdc, join with sl st

Keep increasing until you reach the circumference desired.

Once you’ve gotten the diameter of the hat right (circumference divided by 3.14) you’re going to repeat the pattern all the way around, chain 2 in the chain 2, 1dc in each dc, 1fpdc in each fpdc 

Continue repeating the pattern around the hat until you get the hat height you’re looking for. By now you should be super impressed with yourself and the way the texture is coming along. Who knew a couple of elevated lines could look so cool!

Now that you’ve gotten the main hat part done, it’s time to get fancy! Ready? Of course you are!

Ch 1 and 1sc in each sc around (do this for 2 rows, more if you’re wanting more of a front brim)
Back Brim:

R1: Sl stitch to the second line of fpdc ch 1 *mark this st* and sc around to the 7th fpdc *mark*

*marking helps keep your brim even if you’re not into counting stitches*

R2:ch 1, sc across

R3-5 repeat R2
I made a total of 5 rows of sc, then again, I was making a preemie hat and not looking to make a giant brim *remove and save markers*
When you’ve gotten the brim the size you want, ch 2 *mark*, 2dc in same stitch as ch, dc across to last st, 3dc in last st *mark*
Fold back brim under making sure your *marks* line up, sew brim together, then sc around the entire edge of the hat
Diaper cover; Take the waist measurement you will use (measure just above the belly button) and add 6 inches. This will be the length of your first few rows.


R1: fsc length of waist measurement. If you're not comfortable with the fsc then chain to the length of your measurement, chain one, turn, and sc across, ch 2, turn R2: 1dc in each sc across, ch1, turn R3: sc across

Ready for more math??? Good! Divide your measurement into quarters (or grab your handy dandy calculator and multiply your total # of inches by .25) round to the nearest half inch.

R4: slip stitch through the first quarter, ch2, dc through next 2 quarters, ch2, turn, leaving the last quarter unworked

Decrease: dc2tog in next stitch, dc across until the last 2 st, dc2tog last stitch, ch 2, turn

More math??? Well of course! Count your stitches in R4 and divide by half, this will be the number of stitches you will decrease to. (for example, I had 22 stitches in row 4, and decreased each row until I had 11 stitches). If you have an odd number, just add one to make it even.

Once you arrive at your destination (in my case 11 stitches)

1dc in each dc, ch 2, and turn until you have made it long enough to meet your rise measurement. 

Suspenders:


Fdc for the length desired (again, measure baby or use your online sizes), then sc all the way around.

Sew onto back of diaper cover, and attach buttons to the front.

Embelish your badge before attaching with whip stitch to the hat. I simply used a chain stitch and sewed it on like the letters "FD".

Weave in ends, and voila!

Olaf hat

Materials I used
 Red Heart Super Saver  yarn in WHITE and CARROT
Size  I/9 or 5.50mm hook
Caron Simply Soft yarn in BLACK
You will need a total of three stitch markers  since  rounds are worked continuously
two 1 inch black buttons

Because us little guys don't have the money to stand up to mega billion dollar corporations, I have provided a free pattern on another post, just because mine looks better than theirs!

softball headband

I am using neon yellow and fire red yarn with an I hook

adult :
ch 6
sc in 2nd from hook, sc in next 4 (5)
ch 1 turn
5sc ch 1 turn for 15 rows (the button will be attached on this side)

increase,
 sc in each until middle stitch, 3sc in middle stitch, sc across, ch 1 turn
 sc across for five rows

repeat increase until desired width is achieved

when 1/2 length is achieved begin decrease

decrease:
sc in each sc, sc3tog in middle stitch, sc across, ch 1 turn
sc in each across for 5 rows

when decreased to five sc in 1 row:
[1sc in next 2, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next 2 st, ch 1 turn
sc in each st across] repeat 8 times

use yarn needle and add desired stitch design

lukewarm

What does it mean to be lukewarm? Room temperature, lacking heat or cold.

To be room temperature means to be the temperature of the room. Typically the same as your surroundings.  To prevent being room temperature you need an added element; i.e. ice, a heating element, and an  insulation.  and these elements  must be continual. Otherwise, you will become room temperature.  If you take iced tea  and introduce it into a hot environment, the ice will melt and  it will eventually become hot tea.  On the other side, if you take hot chocolate outside into freezing weather, the heat will dissipate and then you will have cold chocolate.  But if you take the iced tea and hot chocolate  and allow it to become acclimated to a warm environment; they just become yucky warm drinks; neither hot or cold. 

Jesus is the element we must continually take in to retain our temperature, and the Holy Spirit is our thermos that allows us to endure.  When we sit stagnant we become lukewarm.... and that's just gross.

Read Rev 3:-15-16

Then read the book of John

Free Ravelry download - seems like old times

front

back

While in between projects, I stumbled upon this free pattern called seems like old times.  It's a cute and lacy type wrap that I had some Bernat baby soft in my stash that would work perfectly.  So, away I went..... The pattern was easy enough to follow until I came to the puff stitch.  I decided that the puff stitch and I would not be friends, and decided to wing it from there.  I thought it turned out pretty well!  Since I was making it for a six year old, I only continued for three rows after the puff stitch. I decided that a six year old might be challenged to keep a wrap around her shoulders, especially this very active six year old.  I decided that the wrap would become a poncho, and it did.  I followed the same pattern for the back but I kept the pattern open except where I added the stripes of pink and yellow. I then took both sides, eye-balled the neck opening, and joined them together using two single crochets in each space.  For the flowers, I chained 3, then 10 dc in the first chain stitch (I don't like the magic circle). Join the yellow with a slip stitch.  For the petals, I chained two, 1dc,2tc,2dc all in the same stitch, slip stitch in the next stitch then repeat 4 times for a total of five petals. 

crochet socks - round 2

The first pair of crochet socks I made, I used this free pattern.  Now, I'm not entirely sure, but I don't think Canadian people have much different people than I do.  But these "socks" turned out to be more like paddle covers.. so here's my modified pattern:

ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, sc across for a total of 10 sc
ch 1 and turn, sc across in the front loops only. This doesn't give you the "ribbed" look, but it does turn out nicely, if you like the ribbed look, work in the back loops.
do this for 32 rows... unless you have large ankles or legs, then do more. This will be the "top" of the sock
on the last row, turn the work and sc across the side for 32 sc
continue the rows of 32 until you get the leg length you want.  I did four because I wanted one that just went over the ankle.
Next, skip 8 stitches, you can either slip stitch or start a new string of yarn
sc rows of 16 (always starting with a ch1 and turn)  until you get the foot length you want.  I made mine for a size nine and used 21 rows
After that, ch 1 turn and decrease in same and next sc, sc across to last two stitches and decrease in the last two.  (You're making the toe part)
continue decreasing in the first and last two stitches until you get 8 stitches across
then ch 1, turn, and put two sc in the first stitch, sc across, 2 sc in the last stitch
do this until you back up to 16 stitches
next comes your 21 rows of 16 again (you're making the bottom of the foot)
do the same thing for the toe, except only decrease to 10 stitches and add a single row of 10 before you start to increase again

next, sew it all together.

I plan on taking pics to compare theirs to mine... but don't hold your breath!

socks

so I'm following this free pattern for crochet socks and since I want the second one to look like the first, I'm writing my notations down here.  It's easier, since I'm sooooo good at losing stuff....

I followed the pattern precicely for the ribbing or whatever it's called, then I only added four rows since the person who wants them just about ankle height.  

next you skip 10 stitches and sc 20 then turn for 21 rows  (I'm making a size nine sock)

then the toe, dec in each of the ends until you have 10 stitches, then increase back to 20
Took me 4 rows of dec and 4 rows of increase for the toe

then 21 rows of 20 sc for bottom of foot

heel = dec each side 4 rows, inc each side 4 rows
sew together

These turned out REALLY WIDE more like boots than socks.... so I'll make them a little smaller in the 21 rows... probably try 15 next time, I'd like them to hug the feet instead of swallowing them

Legal junk

All patterns are my own unless otherwise credited to the original source. I encourage you to create and give freely as you have been given.  Do not sell my patterns as they're not yours to sell. Thanks and Enjoy!!